A flurry of newly appointed inventive administrators has upended trend’s establishment in latest months, however do not be distracted. Right now belongs to Rachel Scott. On February 11, she staged her first Proenza Schouler runway present since taking the helm of the model based in 2002 by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez (who, in flip, skedaddled over to Loewe final spring). She continues to design for her personal label, Diotima, which can also be on the NYFW calendar.
In entrance of an viewers that included Olivia Munn, Jemima Kirke, and Hari Nef, Scott offered her imaginative and prescient of “a brand new Proenza Schouler girl, a lady formed by thought, instinct, contradiction,” in accordance with the present notes. “To the unknowing eye, she is put-together, exact, deathly punctual. Those that acknowledge her sense that there’s extra to her: The Proenza Schouler girl for fall 2026 rejects perfection as constraint. She consists but mysterious and cinematic. She is disciplined however capricious—human.” How precisely does that translate to garments and equipment? Proceed studying for my breakdown of the autumn/winter 2026 assortment.
The First Ladies’s Assortment by Rachel Scott
Scott is embracing the artfully askew for fall/winter 2026. Fashions walked down the runway carrying smudged lipstick and rumpled clothes that regarded like they might have been fetched out of the hamper 10 minutes earlier than showtime. The girl Scott had in thoughts “was in a rush … transferring shortly and with goal,” because the press launch defined. Different off-kilter particulars included irregular buttons and unconventional tucks.
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler)
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler)
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler)
The Subsequent Step
Within the present notes, Proenza Schouler defined that this season’s “footwear explores distortion: grounded pumps with exaggerated sq. toes, sharply elongated pointed kitten heels, satin sandals with shearling footbeds. Ruptured fringe carries the gathering’s sense of managed friction into footwear.”
(Picture credit score: Getty Pictures)
(Picture credit score: Getty Pictures)
(Picture credit score: Getty Pictures)
It is All within the Particulars
Scott’s assortment balanced large, conceptual themes with pocket-sized particulars finest considered up shut. The grommets, which “interrupt precision” in accordance with the present notes, have been undoubtedly price zooming in on—as have been the outstanding buttons and fringed edges.
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler)
(Picture credit score: Proenza Schouler)
(Picture credit score: Proenza Schouler)
The It-Bag Contenders
Proenza Schouler is not any stranger to the It bag. During the last 20 years, a number of types earned hall-of-fame standing, a fame that Scott doubtless needs to take care of. “Baggage revisit acquainted silhouettes—such because the archival Hex bag, a clutch, and a bowler bag—by means of combined supplies, combining calf hair, cashmere suede, French calf, and kidskin.”
(Picture credit score: Getty Pictures)
(Picture credit score: Getty Pictures)
(Picture credit score: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler)
Manus et Machina
Once I learn the present notes, a Latin phrase got here to thoughts: manus et machina. Which means “hand and machine,” it was the theme of the 2016 Met Gala, which explored the intersection between handicrafts and expertise in trend design. In 2026, Scott’s tackle this idea concerned “photographic imagery of night time orchids [that were] manipulated and reworked, retaining film-like borders, traces of course of left seen—putting digital precision alongside the hand, reflecting an method to craft that respects custom and embraces modernity.”
(Picture credit score: Proenza Schouler)
(Picture credit score: Proenza Schouler)
(Picture credit score: Proenza Schouler)
